da salutistagolosa » 30/05/2005, 11:35
Hi Joschi,
the translations are now ready, our Admin will upload them in due course; In the meantime here is a cut and paste of my translations: (there's three of them)
Ciccio’s Panettone with yeast
Ingredients:
I urge you to read the recipe through very carefully, check the schedule and timetable, use the static oven function (i.e. no fan). Regarding flour, I suggest you use a mix of "manitoba" (i.e. strong North American white flour) and “00” grade flour (25-50% of total flour). Kneading is important, as professionally this dough is mixed with an “impastatrice tuffante” (it is a special kind of professional mixer), so it requires a long kneading time, in three phases: in the last phase the dough has to acquire “nerve”, that is it has to become elastic. The proportions indicated here are for a single panettone, given that home ovens are unsuitable to be used to cook more than a panettone at a time.
First Phase: “Biga” or first leaven
Ingredients:
Farina "00" gr 75
Fresh yeast gr 7 - 8
Water gr 38 - 40
Method for the first phase:
Knead ingredients until you obtain an even, homogeneous mass, as if it were a standard bread dough. Let rise until it doubles, then proceed to the second phase.
Second Phase
Ingredients for the first mixture:
Biga gr 120 - 125
Farina (mix of manitoba and 00) gr 150
Fresh yeast gr 1,5
Sugar gr 45
Eggs (whole) (60-65) n 2
Butter gr 40
Method in the second phase:
Mix the biga, eggs, yeast working until the dough becomes reasonably dry, so that if you touch it with a finger it does not stick to it. Add sugar, and combine it thoroughly. Next add butter at room temperature. Let the dough rise until it doubles. Then proceed to the third phase.
Third phase:
Ingredients of the second mixture
Flour (mix of manitoba and 00) gr 300
Sugar gr 120
Whole eggs (70-75) n 2
Egg yolks 2
Salt gr 4
Honey gr 8
Butter gr 115
Raisins gr 150
Diced candied orange peel gr 75 Diced candied cedar peel gr 50
Flavourings: Vanilla, orange, lemon.
Method for the third phase:
Combine the 1st mixture with the eggs, honey and flour. Knead until the dough becomes reasonably dry and acquires “nerve”, then add the egg yolks. Once the yolks have been absorbed by the dough add the sugar (first half, combine thoroughly, then the rest), and finally salt. Once the sugar has been completely absorbed, add the butter at room temperature, then the flavourings, and finally the candied peel. Leave the dough aside at a temperature of about 30° C (per quanto tempo???). Pour the mixture in the mould and let raise for about three hours at a temperature of 27-30° C (cover the dough to avoid it from forming a crust). The dough will have to raise up to the border of the mould. Then put the panettone in a ventilated area so that a crust can form on the surface. Cut a cross on the surface of the panettone at the centre, place on top a knob of butter and put in the oven at a temperature of 200-210° C for about 10 minutes, until a light golden crust is formed. Then take it out of the oven briefly, pull out the “ears”, and put back in the oven at a temperature of 190-200° C for 50 more minutes. Let it cool upside down (see procedure for panettone with natural yeast).
Ciccio’s panettone (Natural leaven)
Considering the difficulties in working with natural leven I thought it useful to go over the whole procedure to obtain a satisfactory result. If you will follow the whole procedure faithfully, you will have the pleasure of creating “your” panettone, and I say “your” because every panettone has characteristics of its own, since the natural leaven will have its own aromatic characteristics and because, being “live”, natural leaven depends on environmental factors (microclimate) and on the volatile elements present in the atmosphere (bacteria, spores, etc.). Thus different environments breed different natural leavens, and even the one you might have got from your baker after some ten days will be different from the original one in its aromatic components, so “your” leaven will produce a different product from the one of your baker, in spite of having used the same ingredients.
Having said this, two more things:
never use a natural leaven grown just on lactobacilli as starters, as dough made with this yeasts are not firm enough;
get your natural leaven from a baker or a patisserie (this will be more difficult), and ask how to preserve it, that is not how he does it, but how you should.
METHOD
Once you have your leave, get immediately at least 2 kg of panettone flour, which you will find in supermarkets, just to have a technical bit of information it should have: W 380, P/L 55.
In order to get your leaven going and strengthen it: for about 4/5 days make a daily “freshening up” with the classic procedure: 1part leaven + 1 part flour (the same one you will use for the panettone) and ½ part water (or even less);
this dough must be kept hard; keep the leaven as recommended by the baker/patisserie; always start with little leaven, at most 100 gr each time, take its inner core, let the crusts dry and preserve them somewhere dry and cool, they will become your starter for new leaven in the future.
Once you are done with the freshening up operations (4/5 days), set aside two days to make your panettone. This recipe makes 2 of about 1 kilo each.
Tools: professionals would use an “impastatrice tuffante”. At home a mixer with a dough hook will do, together with two panettone moulds of adequate size (i.e. enough for 1 kilo each) and 4 thin knitting needles or something similar which has to have a sharp end, be thin but robust, rigid and about 30 cm long (e.g. skewers). The oven is much better if used on the static function, but if you only have the fan option that will do.
We can start now, planning the timing of all phases carefully, and making sure you comply with the times and temperatures indicated below for the raising and the “freshening up” phases:
1st day – 9 a.m.
Start the first “freshening up”: combine 100 gr natural leaven with about 40 gr water, add 100 gr flour (that for panettone) and knead: as the mixture acquires nerve, add 10 gr more of water and knead until the dough acquires nerve again. Set aside to raise at a temperature of 29°-30° C for about 3 hours.
1st day – about 12:30 p.m.
Start the second “freshening up”: take from the inner core of the mixture from the first freshening up 100g of dough, and repeat the steps of the previous phase, knead and set aside to raise at a temperature of 29°-30° C for 3 hours.
1st day – about 16:00 p.m.
Start the third “freshening up”: refresh the 250 gr of natural leaven with 250 gr flour and 125 gr water following the same precedure described above. Then set aside 300 gr of the dough, which you will reserve for future use, and let the remaining dough to raise as above.
1st day – about 19:30 p.m.
Preparation of the evening dough: If your leaven is strong enough, it will have developed well, with a volume 3 times greater than the starting one. Be careful: if your leaven is not well raised, having trebled its volume, and with a good smell of bread dough, do not continue, as your leaven might be too acidic or too weak. However, a very light acidic smell is ok.
If our leaven looks all right, then we can continue. Get your panettone flour (that you bought a week earlier) out:
INGREDIENTS for the 1st dough (evening)
Sugar gr 180
Warm water (30° C) gr 100
Yolks gr 230
Natural leaven gr 180
Flour gr 410
Butter (softened) gr 255
Reduce the natural leaven to bits and melt it in half of the warm water. Put sugar and yolks (2/3 of total) in your mixing machine and start it, adding the flour after a few minutes.
Let the machine mix until the dough acquires nerve (i.e. it becomes dry and smooth and comes off the sides of the mixing bowl). Add in two phases the remaining water.
Let the machine knead until the dough gets the nerve again (it becomes dry and smooth and comes off the sides of the mixing bowl);
mix in the (softened) butter, and mix until the dough gets its nerve back.
Once this is done, put the dough to raise, covered with a cloth (no plastic wrap please), for about 12-15 hours at room temperature (18° - 21°). In the morning the dough must have trebled in volume.
Kneading time for the first dough: 50-60 minutes;
Put the sultanas (see below) in hot water for about 15 minutes and drain overnight;
INGREDIENTS 2nd dough (morning)
Flour gr 100
Sugar gr 35
Yolks gr 45
Butter, softened, gr 50
Salt gr 12
Vanilla essence to taste
Candied orange peel gr 300
Sultanas gr 200
Candied cedar peel gr 100
METHOD:
Put in the mixing machine the dough from the previous night and add the flour. Start the mixing machine and let knead until you have a smooth dough. Add the sugar and the yolks and keep kneading until the dough acquires nerve.
Add the softened butter, salt and the vanilla essence. Knead for about 10-15 minutes and add the sultanas and the candied peel. Knead until the nerve is back. Kneading time for the second dough: 50-60 minutes. Let the dough rest for about an hour.
SHAPING YOUR PANETTONE Tear the dough in pieces depending on the dimensions you require (bearing in mind that panettone loosed about 10% of its weight in the cooking process). Pre-form the panettone by rolling each piece with the palm of your hand, moving your hand always in the same direction, upwards and outwards, until you obtain a round, smooth ball with no cracks; let them rest for about 10 minutes. Then put each ball on a clean worktop and roll it between your buttered hand, just enough to obtain a compact ball and give your piece of dough a round shape (this is called “prillatura” in Italian).
Put the “spheres” in the moulds and let raise at a temperature of 28°-30° C, in a damp environment (60-70% humidity), for about 6 hours. If you do not have a special raising chamber, just put a pot with boiling water wherever you put your panettone to raise, making sure you replace the water when the air dries up.
After about 6 hours the panettone will have reached the border of the mould;
Cut a cross on the top part of the panettone with a sharp cutter, and place at its centre a knob of butter.
COOOKING
Place in the oven at a temperature of 200°-210° C. After about 5-10 minutes take the panettone out of the oven and spread out the “ears” of your panettone (if you have the fan function on in your oven, cook at a temperature of 180°-190° C). Put it straight back into the over, and lower the temperature by some 10° C.
Overall cooking time: about 55 minutes for a 1 kilo panettone, 35 minutes for a 500 gr. panettone.
Your panettone has to rest for about 12 hours upside down. Therefore: - take your panettones out of the oven; - pierce each of them with 2 knitting needles at some 2 cm from the bottom (the knitting needles should have no ends at both sides). – Turn the panettones upside down, putting the ends of the knitting needles on supports tall enough so that the upturned panettone does not touch any surface, and let cool in this position.
After about 12 hours turn the panettone back into its “normal” position.
Now your panettones must be left alone to rest for about ten days before being eaten (or donated). Keep them in polastic bags or something similar.
Rossella reporting Adriano's panettone
I have found on cucinai.it this last modification that Adriano made to his recipe, I have copied it and here it goes!
I have modified the recipe slightly, I put it here with more detailed explanation.
Ingredients:
strong flour 1125gr
yolks 5
whole eggs 6
sugar 360gr
butter 350gr
salt 15gr
acacia honey 1 tablespoon
barley malt 1 teaspoon (not essential)
18gr fresh yeast
seeds from one vanilla pod (or a teaspoon of vanilla extract)
grated peel of one untreated lemon and one untreated orange
raisins 300gr
candied citrus peel 200gr
A couple of important points: it is absolutely crucial to use a strong flour , the Yellow Rieper recommended many times by Marina Braito is excellent, or manitoba. Never get the flour in direct contact with fats (yolks, butter), otherwise not enough gluten will from, so add the flour only after the fats have been absorbed by the dough. In all phases (especially the last one) the dough must be let to raise at a temperature of 28 - 30° C.
8 - 9 a.m.biga: 200gr flour, 90gr water, 2gr yeast. Knead as little as possible, cover with cling film and let rest at a temperature of 18° C.
6-7 p.m. flavoured poolish: 100gr water, 50 gr flour, 4gr yeast, grated peel of ¼ of an orange, put in a sealed container in the fridge (5° C).
Morning
1° dough
take the poolish out of the fridge some 30 mins before using is, keeping it at a temperature of 30° C.
Mix the poolish (which will smell nice but look dreadful) with 100gr flour, 10gr sugar, 1 yolk (Ken on speed 1). Leave in a warm place covered with cling film until it doubles in size (about 1 hour)
2° dough
Add the biga to the first dough (careful, since the two mixes have different consistency, so they are difficult to mix, if needed use a spatula), 1 egg, 50gr flour, 20gr sugar and mix (on speed 1,5) until it acquires nerve. After half an hour prepare the third yeast mix by combining 30gr warm water, 25gr flour, 12gr yeast, and put everything in a warm place for about 30 more minutes.
3° dough
Combine the yeast mix with the second dough, together with the malt, and add one yolk and 1 egg. When they have been absorbed in the dough, add 150gr flour, 30gr sugar and all the honey. If after 5 mins the dough does not come off the mixing bowl, stop the machine and turn the dough upside down (this operation increases the consistency of the dough, and is good to bear it in mind for all cases where the dough is soft). Leave in a warm place until it doubles in size.
4° dough
Combine the third dough with 3 yolks, 150gr sugar, the vanilla and 100gr flour, knead until it gets the nerve, then add 4 eggs, 150gr sugar (previously pulverised in the coffee grinder on in your mixer together with the lemon and orange peel), 300gr flour and all the salt (you must proceed by adding an egg, and only once it has been absorbed and the dough behaves a bit like chewing gum, i.e. it produces filaments, add the salt and a bit of flour, let it get nerve, then start again with an egg and the flour, until you have put in all the 4 eggs and all the 300 gr flour). Mix until it acquires nerve (1,5 speed), and when the dough comes off the sides of the bowl, add the (softened) butter. Once the butter has been absorbed, add slowly the remaining 150gr flour, kneading and turning the dough upside down (2 o 3 times) until it starts coming off the sides of the mixing bowl. Now add the raisins (which you have previously soaked in warm water and rhum) and the candied peels lightly dusted in flour.
Now there are two possibilities: either we put everything in a sealed container the fridge at 4° C until the morning after (resting in the fridge improves the structure and the taste, and strengthens the yeast – in this case take the mix out of the fridge late morning and after an hour form it and place it somewhere warm to raise), or we let to rest for an hour, then make it in two pieces of 1200gr each, knead them a little by hand, give them a rounded shape pulling the ends on the bottom side and place them in two 1kilo panettone moulds.
Let raise at a temperature of a 30° C, covered in cling film, until the dough raises to the borders fo the moulds (4 or 5 hours), take the cling film off for 30 mins. Then butter a razor blade and use it to cut a cross (careful not to cut too deep), loosen lightly the four edges so created, and place at the centre a knob of butter. Place in the over at a temperature of 200° C for 15 mins., then lower to 160° C for 35-40 mins. (check that it is ready with a wooden skewer).
Almond cover (optional)
Blend 70gr egg white with 75 gr almond flour, 100gr sugar, 10gr maize flour (“fioretto” grade), 10gr cornflour, half teaspoon cocoa powder (optional, its main purpose being to colour), few drops almond essence. Spread quickly on the two panettoni about 15 - 20 mins. Before the end of the cooking time, sprinkle with sugar chips and place back in the oven.
Cool as usual,, upside down. They can be stored for 15 - 20 days in sealed bags.
Adriano Continisio
Napoli